The Boxer bite is a unique bite when compared to most other dogs’ bites. Being a brachycephalic breed, there are some very obvious differences between the correct Boxer bite and the correct bite of a breed other than a brachycephalic. Many breed standards call for a scissor bite. This is an incorrect bite formation for a Boxer, which must be undershot. The Boxer Standard describes what the correct Boxer bite should be, but often it is difficult for people to understand and visualize what is meant. In an attempt to clarify this I have used the words of the Standard, photos of a correct Boxer bite and a description of what I understand the Standard to be asking for.

The official FCI Boxer Standard is not very helpful when talking about the correct movement we should be aiming for in our Boxers. It very simply states “Lively, full of strength and nobility”. This does not really give us a lot to work with! However, it does tell us enough to know that the Boxer should move energetically, with purpose while still maintaining his noble bearing.

Hyper extension of the hock joint is a very serious conformation fault, and sadly very prominent in so many of the Boxers being shown in Europe at the moment. In concentrating on producing Boxers that are strong and powerful in forequarter, with prominent forechest and well angulated shoulders, the hindquarter has been overlooked. Croups have become too short. Pelvises are also too short and too steeply angled, and considering that the pelvis provides a place for the muscles of the upper thigh to attach to, the shorter and more steeply angled the pelvis, the less length there is to attach the muscles to, resulting in narrow upper thighs.

With regards the hindquarter, the FCI Boxer Standard states “Hock: Strong and well defined but not exaggerated. Angle approximately 140 degrees.” and “Metatarsus (rear pastern): Short with slight inclination, 95 – 100 degrees to the ground.” This means that there should be a fairly wide (obtuse) angle through the hock joint and the rear pasterns should slope slightly so that the back foot stands further back than the actual hock joint.